Be royal

Ever wondered what it’s like to live in a palace? As homestyle editor Alice Lines discovers, here you can get the regal treatment.

ABOVE Its majestic symmetry the perfect fit for a Wes Anderson film, Samode Palace has just the right amount of ageing charm. Guests can explore the many rooms to marvel at the handpainted frescoes and detailed mirror-work. The intricate murals painted on the walls in the lounge areas are said to be 250 year old, and tell stories of the noble lives led here.

I’ve scouted many a hotel to add to my worldwide wanderlust wish-list, but only in India would an actual palace be among them. I was searching for an out-of-town stay near Jaipur — somewhere that would be a rural retreat for my friend, stylist Amber Armitage, and I before we hit the Pink City proper for five days of print- making workshops, market madness and more — when I found Samode Palace.
Nestled in the rugged Aravalli Range about an hour’s drive from Jaipur, this accommodation is just the kind of respite you need on a trip to India. A splendid example of the regal Rajasthani aesthetic, the sandstone building was built as a fort in the 16th century, converted into an elaborate palace in the 19th century, then began its third life as a heritage hotel in the 1980s.
Its tall gates open onto a garden where pink bougainvillea spills over the walls and the bobbing heads of potted dahlias usher you up the staircase to the front entrance. Inside, a maze of corridors, stairs and arched doorways leads you from terraces to courtyards, revealing enchanting scenes at every turn.

You could lose yourself exploring the opulent interiors, or take the tour guided by staff impeccably dressed in starched white kurtas. According to, more than a quarter of global travellers consider the social media potential when choosing their accommodation, so you may be pleased to hear that as well as educating guests on their surroundings, the staff are more than happy to help you display them to best effect — if you want a crack-up photo of yourself reflected in a mirror or through a keyhole, you got it!
Filled to bursting with antique furniture, the suites themselves embrace the perfectly imperfect and invite you to relax like a royal on your cushioned daybed, soak in the tiled bath and step out onto the balcony to watch the sun set over the mountains.

ABOVE Archways of every shape and size appear throughout the hotel, catching the light and throwing shadows onto the sandstone walls, where trompe-l’œil paint effects further heighten the decorative appeal. An exotic array of plants sit on pedestals and in terracotta pots alongside the petite outdoor table settings dotted around the courtyards; on request you can dine in various outdoor locations around the hotel, including the secluded turret.

Being away from the city provides a sense of serenity, yet you won’t be at a loss for things to do here. Take a sunrise walk up into the hills behind the palace to explore the ruins and temples. Afterwards, skip the buffet breakfast and go for the cooked-to-order masala dosa — a South Indian crêpe made from a rice and lentil batter, filled with spiced potato and served with chutney and coconut sambar. A visit to the village right outside is also a must; stroll the cobbled streets to see bangle-makers, metalworkers and artists plying their trades.

ABOVE An occupational hazard of two stylists travelling together was the desire to rearrange some of the palace’s excess furnishings, but each guest room has its own character. In this deluxe suite, the canopy above the bed surrounded by marble pillars draws you in — and that’s not to mention the deep bath and the daybed on which you could easily while away a few hours.

Further afield, you could enjoy a hot air balloon ride or wildlife safari, but spending the afternoon at the palace cooling off in the marble and mosaic swimming pool or lazing on a lounger by the rooftop infinity pool can be the ideal antidote to trying to fit too much in. India is a destination of colourful chaos, so it doesn’t hurt to slow down and bask in a moment of royal relaxation.

Words & photography Alice Lines 

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